BRIOLETTE-CUT DIAMOND AND PLATINUM EAR PENDANTS

Joel Arthur Rosenthal—better known as JAR—is one of the most celebrated and elusive figures in contemporary jewelry. Born in New York in 1943, he studied art history and philosophy at Harvard before moving to Paris. He began in textiles, designing needlepoint patterns for houses like Hermès and Valentino, before shifting to jewelry after a client requested a gemstone setting. A brief stint at Bulgari in New York preceded his return to Paris, where he and his partner, Pierre Jeannet, opened JAR in 1977. The Place Vendôme boutique remains famously discreet—no advertising, signage, or window displays—with new clients accepted by personal introduction. This pair of briolette-cut diamond drops exemplifies JAR’s exacting standards. The briolette, a 17th-century Indian cut, covers the diamond entirely in triangular facets, lacking a table, crown, or pavilion. Achieving symmetry and brilliance without excessive weight loss is technically demanding, making large briolettes especially rare. For connoisseurs, the appeal lies in the precision, rarity, and singular beauty.